February is the foundation anniversary and coffee festival
of Kulaman Plateau (official name: Municipality of Senator Ninoy Aquino). I’m
not so enthusiastic about it. I prefer not to write about it. But if I didn’t,
it would be a disservice to the readers of this blog. After all, the fiesta is
supposed to be the biggest celebration of any Philippine town.
I went to the fiesta two years ago, and it was
disappointing, to say the least. But before I get grouchy and discourage you
from reading on, let me focus first on the positive side. For me the best thing
about the celebration was the motocross competition, mainly because it has a
special category for skylabs.
A skylab is a motorcycle slightly modified to carry up to
five passengers. In Cebuano-speaking areas of Mindanao, it is called habal-habal. (Kulaman is predominantly
Ilonggo.) The motorcycle is usually a
Honda TMX. To transform it into a skylab, the shock absorber is lengthened by
several inches. A seat made of grills is then placed on top of the tank, where
a passenger can sit “girly style” in front of the driver. Lastly, the rear-end
of the vehicle, where the luggage can be tied on, is replaced with a cushioned
seat to accommodate at least one more butt.
A skylab. We used to have one in late nineties. It was bought in Koronadal and then remodeled in T'boli , South Cotabato
The skylab racing makes the motocross competition in Kulaman
distinct from the ones in urban areas. The racetrack is at the back playground
of Kulaman Central Elementary School.
I went to the fiesta for one day only, though the
celebration lasted for almost a week. I got impatient of waiting for the
activities to start. That morning, the program scheduled at eight, in the
municipal gymnasium, did not begin until ten-thirty. I don’t know if the
activities on the other days also started as late as that. The day I was there,
the delay was caused by the guest of honor, who still came from some very
important meeting hundreds of miles away. The afternoon program started at
three and the evening program at nine. Kulaman was giving “Filipino time” a
whole new meaning.
The name of the celebration is “Solok Festival,” after the
weaved bamboo basket used by the Dulangan Manobo in their everyday chores. Do
not expect, however, a tribal street dancing competition as in city or
provincial fiestas. Kulaman is too poor for that.
The evening I visited Kulaman, I went to the perya (fair) near the gym and the
municipal hall. I was amused and appalled by what I saw, not because there were
no rides but because practically all
the games in the twenty or so stalls involved betting. The place was a paradise
for gamblers. In Koronadal, where I went to college, numbers games were
prohibited in the perya. People with gambling contraptions were ordered to pack
up. It’s the exact opposite in Kulaman.
I was disappointed with the town festival, but I had some
fun. The experience wasn’t really horrific enough to not give it another try.
We’ll see.